| I’ve always said, if there was only one place that I was able to return to in Vietnam, Sapa would be it. This is why:

Sapa is set in a Northern Vietnamese mountain range almost to the Chinese border.The tiered rice paddy fields cut into the mountainside,the bamboo forests and the ever present shrouds of mist leave you in constant awe.



We took an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai and then went the last 35km to Sapa by minibus. We arrived in Sapa early in the morning amidst the chaos of the weekly Sunday market. It wasn’t quite the serene place that I had been describing to JB.


After navigating our way through that, we set off to the place that we would spend the next couple of days. We splurged for one night and stayed at the Topas Ecolodge, an environmentally conscious lodge on the top of a mountain, 20km outside of the town of Sapa. Each bungalow was powered by solar panels, the water was supplied by a nearby mountain spring and all of the materials and labor were local.
 

Not only that, but their restaurant was supplied by their own organic farm that was located on the grounds. Â


The next day we awoke to mist rolling over the mountains that surrounded our bungalow.

After spending the previous day just soaking up the beauty, I convinced JB to hop back onto a mountain bike and ride the 20km back into town. It proved to be yet another one of our epic rides. About a half hour in, it started to sprinkle and then about 15 minutes later, it just plain poured. Yet, somehow, that didn’t really matter given our surroundings.



By the time we got to town, our shoes squelched and our clothes created puddles below us. When we went to a restaurant for lunch, we were “asked” if we might like to sit outside to eat.
We made the very cold ride back to our lodge just in time to have a hot shower and get the minibus to the train station for our overnight ride back to Hanoi. JB, just as I had last time I visited Sapa, vowed to return.

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Amazing pictures…thanks for the update. Happy Thanksgiving. We miss you.
Lisa, Sean, Reilly & Claire
posted by Sean, Lisa, Reilly & Claire on November 23rd, 2006 at 9:49 amHappy Thanksgiving!
John Neil, just so you know - the pictures are beautiful, but when you look back twenty years from now, do you really want every picture to be of you with a Scooby-do/Shaggy mustache?
I didnt think so. Clean yourself up: shave, comb your hair, put on some cologne, maybe some deoderant, brush your teeth, floss, cut your toe-nails, and clean your ears with a q-tip. Just so you know, Ive had too much to drink tonight, but, irregardless (which is not a word), have fun, and stay safe.
Patrick and Tin
posted by Patrick and Tin on November 23rd, 2006 at 9:01 pmShaving requires new razors, cologne attracts bugs, deodorant is a luxury, i brush my teeth, my toenails ward off rabid animals, and I haven’t seen a qtip in months. Practicalities, Patrick.
posted by john on November 24th, 2006 at 9:37 amIn twenty years if im looking back, ill either still have the shaggy look, or wish i could still pull it off.
Actually, I think you look like Maynard on Dobie Gillis. Keep the facial hair, it makes life simpler.
My main emotion when viewing your blog is envy.
The photography is spectacular, but then you have a lot to work with. The commentary is informative, articulate, witty and thoroughly enjoyable. It will stand without the pictures. I think you’ve found your calling–travel writers. Read Simon Winchester.
All our love
posted by kfm on December 11th, 2006 at 5:17 pm